TRAVELENDURA: hyderabad

The capital of the state of Andhra Pradesh, this is the 5th largest metropolis in

India

that has a mishmash of both north and south Indian cultures. The city is more than 400 years old and was once home to the ‘Koh-i-noor’ diamond. One would be able to trace back the origins of many other diamonds such as the ‘Orloff’ & ‘Hope Diamond’ to this city.

Charminar-Front

It is also nicknamed 'City of Pearls' As you drive through the city, you will see that it has many faces to it. While steeped in deep tradition and history, it is also a hub of information technology, biotechnology, agricultural industries and educational institutions. This is one of those places in India that has not lost its old world charm in the process of embracing new progressive ideologies.

Inside Golkonda

Hyderabad is rich in culture, arts, history, dance and music and has much to offer to tourists and wanderlusts. It is filled with gardens, lakes, museums, forts and bazaars, each of which will have its own story to tell. What is extremely evident is the clear demarcation of the old & the new Hyderabad. The old part of the city has all the historical attractions, temples, mosques & bazaars while the new part such as Banjaara hills, Gachibowli, etc has posh residential areas, malls, pubs, restaurants and IT companies. I for one found it is quite comfortable to blend into both worlds.

We stayed at a nice little hotel in the heart of the city, so commuting between the sight seeing areas was eased out. When I mean eased out, I mean only by way of distance between the places. I must warn you though, that driving through is close to being nightmarish. The place is filled with little ‘gullies’ and also the most erratic drivers I’ve ever seen. A GPS proved very useful and so did asking for directions.

Charminar:

The Charminar

Medina Bazar

It is 400 years old. The area has old Hyderabad written all over it and the Charminar stands tall and proud in the centre. It was built as a memorial to commemorate the death of nearly 4000 people & thereby ‘char’ or four minars for the 4 thousand. It is best to hire a government certified guide to help you absorb the history behind it. Entry into the 2^nd storey is not permitted while from the 1^st storey you will see an ocean of people around the minars shopping for pearls, henna & clothes in the Medina bazaar. You can also see the high court, the Golconda fort and the Falaknuma Palace from here.

Falaknuma Palace:

The palace is just about 5-6kms from the charminar. Built in 1884 by Vikar-ul-Umra and designed by an English architect, the Falaknuma palace once the residence of the Nizams, is now one of the finest 5 star hotels in the country. It is must for all those who want to feel like royalty in present day Hyderabad. Don’t forget to make your reservations well in advance. We didn’t this time, so I’ve another luxurious reason to visit the city again soon.

Golconda Fort:

It is also known as Golla Konda or ‘Shepherd’s hill’. This hill contains the ruins of what was once a most expansive fort known for its fortitude. We went to see the fort in the evening, so trekking all the way up to the ‘Bala Hisar’ was not possible. We got to see the fort in a different light, very literally. As you enter through the ‘Fateh Darwaza’ you will see people clapping. Do not be surprised. This fort is an engineering marvel that has a perfect acoustical system. A clap in Fateh Darwaza can be heard all the way in Bala Hisar more than a kilometer away. Through the darwaza, on to your left and right you will see mounted cannons, which were once used in the battle against the Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb. Further inside, you will enter the main area of the fort, open to the sky. This is where the sound and light show takes place. The show elaborates the history of Golkonda through light and audio tracks. It attracts many tourists thirsty for historical information and it also attracts an army of mosquitoes thirsty for all blood types.

Bala Hisar at Golkonda

Hussain Sagar:

The lake was built in 1562, over a tributary of the river Musi. For a long time this man-made lake served as the city’s drinking water source and also met its irrigation requirements. Today the lake is more a tourist attraction. It has the Lumbini garden & amusement park attached to it and also houses the Buddha Poornima project. At the centre of the lake you will see a massive statue of the Buddha drenched in different colored lights. One can hire a boat and alight at the base of the statue to catch a closer glimpse of its beauty. We thoroughly enjoyed the ferry ride and also dinner in a restaurant at the lakeside. From the bank you will see why the road along the lake is called as the ‘Necklace road’

Ramoji Fim City:

Film setting inside Ramoji

This is about 30kms from Hyderabad and houses movie sets that are still used extensively by the Indian Film Industry. It is more than 1500 acres in area of which a small part is occupied by the film city. It consists of settings of airports, train stations, typical Indian villages, temples, churches, streets, etc. The South & North Indian film industries put these to good use. There are also some small rides for kids, shows and good restaurants inside. One particular show caught my fancy. This was a show dedicated to explaining how a movie is made, detailing the importance of all crew members and their dedicated jobs. You may be disappointed if you went in expecting it to be on par with Universal Studios, but you will be happy to see the time, money and dedication that has gone into building the place & to understand its contribution to our entertainment industry.

I am saving the visit to Salar Jung Museum, the Falaknuma Palace and also a daytime trek of the Golkonda fort for my next trip. We enjoyed every bit that the city had to offer, including its infamous dish the ‘Dum Biryani’ and the exquisite ‘Paan’. I am definitely going back for more.

We also got a feel for the new Hyderabad. We drove through Gachibowli, Banjara Hills and found the state there in stark contrast to the old city we had just left. What I felt was, that the city was well equipped with modern progressive ideas, yet at the same time, poised on a strong foundation of culture & tradition. This balance is what that usually goes awry in our attempt to keep up with time & technology. Hyderabad has nailed it.

Inside Charminar

My thoughts at the Charminar & the Golkonda fort were that, we were walking on the same grounds as those Nizams & their queens. The same court where we stood was where poems of Ramdas and others were composed. The walls had witnessed one of the greatest romances of King Quli & Queen Bhagmathi, and had also seen Emperor Aurangzeb march in to claim them as his. Quli decided to build Hyderabad in honor of Queen Hyder Mahal, once Bhagmathi. Such was the exuberance of love then. And such is the marvel of India, a country tested through time and a testimonial for endurance.

Tips for travel in Hyderabad:

Carry eatables and ample water for your trip, if by road. There are no good rest stops on the way to Hyderabad from Bangalore.
Have a good navigation system on board. This will prove very useful within the city.
Carry emergency medicines, a torch light and most importantly, a mosquito repellant at all times.
Carry shades, an umbrella and a wear a good sun block during the day.
Hire a cabbie to move within the city. Driving is very erratic and the alleys may confuse you, so a cab may prove very relieving.
Hire government certified guides to help you soak in all the history, the forts & palaces have to offer.
Check with museum’s and park’s timings.
Buses, trains and flights ply between Hyderabad & other metros. Look up the schedule and book well in advance.
The city has hotels catering to all budgets. Do a little bit of research before booking.
Hyderabad is filled with good restaurants & cafes. You won’t have trouble finding one to your taste.